Mtn Home AFB Veterinary Treatment Center - May 2012

The Truth About Parvo

Is there anything cuter than a puppy?  The clumsy walk, the pudgy belly, the huge paws, the inquisitive nature, the excess amount of energy, their love—puppies are so much fun and such a handful.  We can become so wrapped up in the excitement of a new puppy that we forget about how exposed they are to dangerous infections and diseases.  One of the biggest threats for puppies is the Parvovirus.

The Parvovirus is everywhere; it could be living in your carpet from past tenants, in the park, or at the animal shelter where you adopted your pet.  It can be anywhere.  Parvo enters your puppy’s body via the mouth.  Something as simple as eating food off the ground or cleaning itself is all it takes.  The virus camps out in your puppy’s lymph nodes for a while until it has replicated enough to release into the bloodstream.  At that point, the virus looks for new organs for the support it needs.  It infects bone marrow causing destruction of young immune system cells.  This makes the puppy’s immune system defenseless causing the GI tract to be hit hardest by the virus.  The infection’s damage on the GI tract is most noticeable in the form of an intense case of diarrhea and vomiting.  These two symptoms lead to dehydration.  Untreated, the dehydration will result in shock and ultimately death.  Another way the virus results in death is a result of the helpless immune system being invaded by bacteria, which releases septic toxins.

Sounds scary, right?  It is, and very much so, but it’s no reason for alarm.  The easiest (and cheapest) way to prevent Parvo is to vaccinate your puppy on schedule and to keep your puppy at home until the final 16-week vaccination is given.  That means visits to the pet store; dog park, and visits from your friends’ dogs are not recommended.  It is only after that last set of vaccines that your puppy has a strong enough immune system to fight off infections.  If your puppy starts showing any symptoms: diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, not wanting to eat, not wanting to drink; call a vet immediately.  The most important thing you can do for your puppy is get it treated as soon as possible. 

Visit our webpage.

2012 ACC Kid’s Summer Golf

Learning to play golf is a tremendous challenge for every beginner, and for kids the challenge is even greater.  The length of the golf course and the complexities of instruction can be discouraging., possibly turning them away from golf forever.  Silver Sage Golf Course is available to help your child discover that golf is a game they can enjoy for their entire lifetime.

On June 25-29, 2012 Silver Sage Golf Course will host the 9th Annual ACC Kid’s Summer Golf program designed to teach youth how to golf using clubs fitted especially for them.  This emphasis follows an instructional program developed to teach the fundamentals of golf while demonstrating how much fun the challenge of this sport can be.  This weeklong youth golf program is open to youth ages 6 and older.  The entry fee is $69.95 and includes five one-hour lessons, starter clubs, golf hat, instructional booklet, and T-shirt.  Register by 8 June.

May 2012 Golf Pro Tip

Low and Slow

by Stephen Vedder, Silver Sage Golf Professional

We have all heard the saying “Take the club back low and slow.”  This tried and true statement has been around for a long time, and for good reason; it works.  Why?  Because, a slow, steady takeaway sets the stage for a good windup and smooth transition to the downswing.  I want to further expand on this thought and show you how the first couple feet on the takeaway can help you obtain your desired angle of attack, ball flight, and trajectory. 

Drivers, fairway woods, long irons, and hybrids:  Drag the club back very low to the ground for the first 18 inches or so, also try to take it back straight from the ball.  This will ensure a shallow angle of attack and a slightly ascending blow.

Short irons and wedges:  The club should go back straight, but slightly steeper due to the shorter shaft.  This will ensure a descending blow and clean contact.

Fade:  Aim your body left of your intended target (where you want the ball to start), drag the club back along your foot line (slightly away from you).  On the downswing, the club will continue to follow your foot line (slightly towards your body).  This outside-in path will produce a fade.

Draw:  Aim your body right of your intended target (where you want the ball to start), drag the club back along your foot line (slightly inside).  On the downswing, the club will continue to follow your foot line, you will feel as though you are swinging out to the right of your intended target (slightly away from your body) this inside-out  path will produce a draw.

Low:  Ensure the ball is back in your stance (behind center) and that your hands are in front of the ball at address.  Take the club back low to the ground as you would with a driver, you will use minimal wrist cock.  On the way down, feel as though your hands are leading the club-head through impact, and try to stop your finish low, at about hip height.  This will produce a low-flying shot.

High:  Pay the ball slightly forward in your stance (inside your left heel), and take the club back straight but steeply with maximum wrist cock.  On the way down, try to keep your head behind the ball as you fully release your hands through impact.  This will produce a towering shot.